Your first suit: our 5 essential tips to remember

We’ve taken the plunge: we’re off to the tailor to make our first suit, which will be the first in our wardrobe. With a few suit images in mind, gleaned from films, Instagram or people who inspire us. Things we’ve seen on others that we project onto ourselves, but the transition from one to the other isn’t easy. At the tailor’s, the first difficulties begin: bundles of fabrics that can make you dizzy, dozens of possibilities for lapels, belts, trousers, linings and jackets. Putting together your first suit can quickly become a complex and, for some, nerve-wracking task. Let’s start with a few simple steps.

The first complete will not be perfect. Nor even the tenth, despite years of experience. Perfection doesn’t exist. Our tastes and desires change, as do fashions. When you’re 25, you’re not looking for the same thing as when you’re 35 or 50. Mistakes are part of the process of asserting yourself and building your wardrobe: they allow you to learn and develop. Some people may find it hard to make up their mind and choose from all the possibilities. If you make a mistake, you’ll probably be the only one to see what you think is wrong. Making a costume should remain a moment of pleasure, not a moment of anxiety. Otherwise, you might as well opt for ready-to-wear!

Trust your consultant. He or she sees hundreds of customers every year and knows all the latest fashions. It’s their job to guide you and point you in the right direction. If you don’t trust him, you might as well go elsewhere.

The risk in making a first suit is getting bogged down in the details you read on blogs: lapel size, Milanese, trouser waistband, choice of buttons, trouser bottoms, etc. This is both important and accessory. It’s both important and accessory. What’s really fundamental is the choice of fabric (colour and weave), the cut and the measurements. In short, a beautiful suit, simple, well cut, made from a beautiful fabric. A suit that you’re proud to wear, because it shows you off, because you feel good in it. A suit that others will enjoy looking at, without us trying to impress them ourselves, which would be a sign of inelegance.

There are very few professions today where wearing a suit is necessary, or even compulsory. With the possible exception of funeral directors, but then black is the obvious choice. So before choosing a suit, ask yourself this first question: in what circumstances am I going to wear it? You wear a suit for yourself, but also for others. Family ceremonies: weddings, funerals; special professional occasions; daily costume in professions where it is essential. The circumstances in which a suit is worn determine part of its success.

And don’t forget that a suit is an investment. It represents a definite budget and is a garment that will be worn for several years. With a suit, we’re not in the disposable seasonal fashion business. So we have to make a suit that we like today but that we can still wear in five or ten years’ time. It’s all about relative timelessness rather than the fashion of the moment.

Once this has been defined, the question arises of colour. Black is not a good colour to go for, especially as it’s difficult to match: apart from white shirts and classic ties, it won’t go with much of anything.

Two colours stood out for a first base: blue and grey. But that doesn’t solve the problem. Leafing through bundles of fabrics, you soon realise that there are dozens of blues and greys, with different textures and weaves. We recommend a light grey and a slightly dark blue. These are both versatile and assertive colours, which can be combined with different types of shirt (white, blue, striped, pink, etc.) and different types of tie.

Once you’ve chosen the fabric, you can move on to the details. Here too, it’s better to go for classic rather than extravagant. No slim lapels, but not too big either – that would look odd. Buttons in the same tone as the fabric, an elegant but not flashy lining, and so on. For trousers, it’s up to you to decide whether you prefer braces or a belt, bearing in mind that loops and buttons can be used for both. Dressed in this way, you have a suit that can be worn for almost any occasion, that enhances the wearer without turning him or her into a Harlequin that everyone will notice.

There is no such thing as a four-season suit. Most suits are fine for most of the year in a temperate climate like France. But for those who need to wear their suit in winter and summer without being in air-conditioned offices, you’ll need to consider suits made from materials suited to these seasons.

For winter, a warm, textured flannel; for summer, cool wools in beige tones, or even linen if you like a slightly crumpled look. Or linen, silk or cashmere blends for more expensive fabrics. With four suits, one in blue and one in grey for most occasions, one in winter and one in summer for seasonal wear, it’s possible to plan for all types of wear all year round.

For those who want to venture into stronger, more daring experiences, a double-breasted suit will quickly become a necessity. You have to dare to wear it, it never goes unnoticed, but it sets a style. A blue double-breasted suit also has the added advantage of being easy to wear with anything: the jacket goes very well with grey trousers or chino in a casual blazer style. The same suit can therefore offer a wide range of possibilities, which is not the case for classic grey and blue suits.

Prince of Wales and checks can also make great suits. They’re officially less formal than grey and blue suits, but since hardly anyone wears suits in everyday life any more, yesterday’s informal is today’s formal. For those who have trouble with suits that are too classic and feel uncomfortable with the formality of blue and grey, a checked suit can be a good alternative for a first suit. Because it’s less formal, it can be easier to wear. Some people may find it easier to pull it out of their wardrobe and put it on, because it’s less formal, while others may have trouble with less formal patterns. This brings us back to the basics: the circumstances in which you wear it and the reasons why.

A less explored but interesting option is the green suit. A deep green, fir or empire. Less versatile than blue, green nevertheless goes very well with almost everything. So it’s easy to combine a green suit with shoes, shirts and ties. It’s a colour that stands out, but without overdoing it. It has been a wedding classic for several years running, but it can also be worn in everyday life and is timeless.

Finally, for those who really love the suit and dare to wear it, the question of the chalk stripe suit will have to be asked fairly quickly. It may look like a banker’s suit or a suit for men from the 1920s, but a beautiful stripe blended into the flannel on a light grey or anthracite background has a magnificent charm and a timelessness that means you’ll be able to keep and wear this suit for years to come.

Whether you’re looking for your first suit or want to enhance your wardrobe with a made-to-measure piece, our team of expert tailors is here to guide you. Make an appointment now with one of our shops near you and benefit from personalised advice to find the suit that will make you look your best, at any age and for any occasion.